A Guide To Understanding The Difference Between Micropigmentation and Tattooing?

Article by Gemma Hutchings | Date Published 23rd September 2024

What is the Difference Between Micropigmentation and Tattooing?

Let's dive into the intriguing world of skin artistry and uncover the key differences between micropigmentation and traditional tattooing. These differences hinge on five main factors: needle size, molecule size, machine stroke length, the body's response to ink/pigment, and the depth of skin penetration.

The practioner

But firstly, let's consider the practitioners carrying out these treatments. Micropigmentation courses, typically lasting 2-4 days, provide focused training on short lasting applications such as areola, eyebrow enhancement, eyeliner, and lip colour. This specialised training includes online learning, pre course practice, in person hands on application, case studies and assessments. This training ensures that practitioners are skilled in creating natural-looking, subtle enhancements.

On the other hand, tattoo artists undergo years of apprenticeships to master their craft. This extensive training not only hones their artistic abilities but also equips them with the technical expertise to create intricate and detailed designs. In most cases their exceptional drawing skills, often developed over years, are first expressed on paper and then transferred to the skin.

It’s worth noting that some technicians and trainers are now advocating for the use of permanent ink in micropigmentation, particularly for creating areolas that are intended to last a lifetime. While many of these practitioners are exceptional artists, there is an ongoing debate about whether the artistic skills developed over a few days (and ongoing practice) can match the depth of expertise gained through years of drawing and tattooing.

Ultimately, the key consideration is the patient's needs and preferences. The decision to create a lifelong areola should take into account the skill level of the practitioner, and any physical changes that patient may go through over a period of time.

Moving on.......

Needle Size

In micropigmentation, small needle configurations are the norm, typically ranging between 0.18 to 0.3 mm. These super fine needles enable the intricate work of a micropigmentation practitioner. The smaller the needle, the smaller the amount of pigment left behind in the skin.

Conversely, tattoo needles are larger, starting from 3 mm and going up to configurations as large as a 17-magnum, which involves 17 needles penetrating the skin simultaneously. These larger needles create bigger holes, depositing more pigment and resulting in substantial saturation of colour.

Molecule Size

Tattoo ink particle size tends to be bigger (0.1 to 5 microns) than that of micropigmentation pigments (less than 1 micron) with the exception of Carbon Black – these particles are particularly small and have a greater perspicuity to migrate.

Carbon Black: is chemically inert and highly stable, it is also hydrophobic, meaning it repels water. Its resistance to chemical reactions and breakdown means that once it's deposited in the dermis, it doesn’t degrade or dissolve easily. Although carbon black particles are small, their size and shape contribute to their entrapment within the skin. Nanoparticles, including carbon black, can be efficiently engulfed by macrophages (See section 5) but are difficult to process and remove due to their durable nature.

Carbon black particles also have a tendency to stick together! They form large groups or clusters which leave the immune system struggling even further to break them down.

Carbon is also a fundamental element in the human body so it is not seen as such a threat in the immune response.

Now back to inks and pigments:

In micropigmentation, the smaller the particle size helps create a softer, more natural appearance, which is essential for applications such as areola, and brow micropigmentaton. Due to the pigment particle size they are more susceptible to being broken down, resulting in gradual fade.

Traditional tattoo inks, on the other hand, have larger, more concentrated molecules designed to be permanent. These inks stay vibrant and resist fading, ensuring that the tattoo remains sharp and visible for many years. The larger molecule size also makes it harder for the body's immune system to break down and remove the ink.

Machine Stroke Length

The stroke length of a machine refers to how far the needle travels back and forth in the cartridge, ranging from 1.5 to 4.5 mm. In micropigmentation, a shorter stroke length of 1.5 to around 3.2 mm is advisable, while in tattooing, a stroke length of 3.2 to 4 mm is preferred.

A longer stroke length means the machine picks up more pigment, which can be deposited into the skin. It also affects the "hit" on the skin: a longer stroke length will hit the skin harder, akin to pulling a rubber band back further before letting go. For delicate areas, a softer hit is essential to prevent skin trauma.

The Depth of Skin Penetration

When it comes to how our body responds to pigment and ink, the depth of penetration plays a crucial role. Micropigmentation works at around 1.5 mm, just below the junction between the epidermis and the dermis. Tattooing delves slightly deeper at around 1.95 mm, fully into the dermis. It’s a minute difference, but makes for a massive difference in the longevity.

The permanence of a tattoo lies in the skin’s layers. The skin comprises seven layers, but tattoos primarily concern the top two: the epidermis (outermost layer) and the dermis (second layer). Tattoo needles puncture the epidermis, depositing ink into the dermis. If the ink were to stay in the epidermis, it would bleed out as epidermal cells regenerate approximately every three weeks. In micropigmentation, working closer to the rejuvenation site at the junction between the epidermis and dermis means the pigment is nearer to the surface, leading to a different fading pattern.

This also means that micropigmentation is more susceptible to being broken down by UV light from the sun as it is closer to the surface.

depth of skin penetration - micropigmentation vs tattooing

The Body's Response to Pigment and Ink

Tattoos were once believed to stain specific skin cells called fibroblasts. However, the true agents are macrophages, a type of immune cell. When a needle punctures the skin, macrophages engulf the ink/pigment particles. When these cells die, new macrophages absorb the ink/pigment. This continuous cycle keeps the ink/pigment in place.

The unique chemistry of tattoo ink and pigments prevents macrophages from expelling it, resulting in a the ink/pigment remaining in the body. This process also occurs in micropigmentation, but due to the smaller, more diluted pigment molecules, the macrophages are not as engorged with colour. Imagine a vibrant blueberry jellybean packed with blue dye versus a lightly coloured strawberry jellybean. The blueberry stands out, while the strawberry blends in. Similarly, traditional tattoos are bold and bright, whereas micropigmentation results in a softer, subtler look.

Summary

In summary, while both micropigmentation and tattooing involve inserting pigment into the skin. With tattooing larger needles, create bigger impressions, deeper into the dermis with machines that pack in more colour with a longer stroke length and harder hit. The ink molecules are larger and more vibrant in colour resulting in macrophages being engorged with colour that the body can’t break down.

Whereas micropigmentation uses fine needles that create smaller impressions where less pigment is deposited in the epidermal/dermal junctions. A softer hitting machine with a shorter stroke length picks up and therefore deposits less pigment into the skin. The molecule size of a pigment is smaller and more diluted leading to softer less visible results. The fact that the pigment sits higher in the skin than ink means it is closer to the surface, more susceptible to UV light breaking it down and the skin's natural ability to sloth away. These differences result in micropigmentation offering a more natural and adjustable appearance, whereas traditional tattoos provide a bold, permanent solutions.